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How to Fold and Wear Pocket Squares

Published on July 29, 2024 by Ryan Hallstrom · Accessories

The pocket square has the potential to instantly elevate your style game. Despite its apparent lack of significance, this accessory has the ability to elevate an ordinary suit to the level of a sartorial masterpiece.

Table of Contents

Toggle
  • An Overview of the History of Pocket Squares
  • Selecting the Appropriate Fabric
  • Folding Your Pocket Square
  • Pocket Square Colors and Coordination
  • FAQ
  • Pull Out Your Pocket Squares

Join us as we delve into the world of pocket squares, discussing their history, the various folds that they can take, and how you can easily incorporate them into your wardrobe.

An Overview of the History of Pocket Squares

The origins of the pocket square can be traced back to ancient times. Greek men would use small handkerchiefs that were scented to combat unpleasant odors.

Storing Pocket Squares in a Box
Source: Tumblr

Other groups, the Romans for example, used them in ceremonies to mark the commencement of games and events in the Coliseum.

1920’s actor, Buster Keaton, wearing a pocket square. | Source: Pixabay

Throughout the course of several centuries, this practical item then transformed into a fashionable accessory. By the 19th century, as the modern long necktie began its climb into the limelight, the pocket square too gained traction.

The pocket square had firmly established itself as a symbol of sophistication and elegance by the time the 1920s rolled around. Actors, celebrities, and anyone who desired to exude affluence made certain to rock a pocket square.

Then, in the 1960s and 70s, the pocket square prevalence diminished. 

Fortunately for us, the pocket square has made a comeback and has firmly entrenched itself into modern day fashion. 

Selecting the Appropriate Fabric

Although they are both classy additions that elevate a man’s outfit, pocket squares made of silk and linen have different textures, materials, and overall looks. 

The following is a comparison of pocket squares made of silk and linen:

Silk Pocket Square

Silk pocket squares are known for their plush, velvety feel. Originating from the cocoons of silkworms, silk has an inherent luster that catches the light readily and gives an impression of being elegant and sumptuous.

Wearing this fabric is comfortable because of its softness and light weight. Silk pocket squares are frequently available in a broad range of vivid hues and elaborate patterns, like paisley or floral motifs. 

Silk is a popular material for evening wear and formal occasions because of its smoothness, which enables elegant folds and a polished appearance. 

Silk’s glossy luster adds to its elegant and sophisticated appearance, making it appropriate for events that call for a little glitz.

Linen Pocket Squares

Conversely, linen pocket squares have a cozier, more organic charm. Made from the flax plant’s fibers, linen is a lightweight, breathable fabric with a slightly rough surface. 

The understated matte texture and effortless beauty of linen pocket squares define them. Linen’s texture gives the piece a tactile quality and a polished yet carefree appearance. Due to its ability to control temperature and breathe, linen is a popular choice for daytime events and warm weather wear. 

Earthy tones and traditional designs abound in linen pocket squares, which provide a subtle refinement to any gentleman’s outfit. 

The inherent creases in the fabric give it a worn-in, careworn look that’s ideal for creating a business-casual or smart-casual look.

Folding Your Pocket Square

Experimenting with different folds is one of the most enjoyable aspects of incorporating a pocket square into your ensemble. This is because the pocket square can be folded in a variety of ways. 

In contrast to the stair fold, which adds a touch of nonchalance to the overall look, the classic square fold is both timeless and versatile. 

Classic folds exudes sophistication, while the one-point fold, which is casual yet refined, is ideal for settings that are more laid back. It is important to not be afraid to try new things and discover a fold that is in line with your individual sense of style.

How to Fold the Classic Pocket Square

Step #1:

Place the pocket square face down first.

Then, from right to left, fold in half.

Step #2:

Fold from bottom to top in half.

Step #3:

Fold from left to right in half.

Step #4: 

Tuck the bottom behind the front and fold it up.

To suit the size of your jacket pocket, adjust.

Some other variations include the single peak, or one-point, and the stair method.

How to Fold the One-Point

Step #1:

Start with the pocket square in the diamond position, face down.

Step #2:

From the top and right corners to the left and bottom corners, fold in half.

Step #3:

From the top and left corners to the right and bottom corners, fold in half.

Step #4:

Press the upper right corner into the middle.

Then, fold left corner to right corner.

Step #5:

Tuck the bottom behind the front and fold it up.

Similarly, adjust to the jacket pocket’s dimensions.

There it is — a perfect peak! 

How to Fold the Stair Fold

Step #1: 

Place the pocket square face down first.

Step #2: 

From top right to bottom left, fold in half diagonally.

This will serve as the staircase’s initial step.

Step #3:

Pinch the material two inches below the first stair and fold it up to create the second stair, which is located just below the first.

Repeat this process to create the third stair, which is located just below the second.

Step #4: 

With the steps securely in place, carefully fold in half diagonally, positioning the upper left corner beneath the lower right corner.

Step #5: 

Fold the right side to the left and back behind, making sure to secure the stairs. Fold the left side over to the right and back.

Step #6:

Tuck the bottom behind the front and fold it up.

 As always, make the necessary adjustments to match the size of your jacket pocket.

Pocket Square Colors and Coordination

When it comes to color coordination, the pocket square provides an opportunity to inject personality into your outfit. This is because it allows you to coordinate colors.

Utilizing a pocket square that is carefully selected can either complement or contrast with your tie, shirt, or suit, thereby producing an appearance that is harmonious and visually appealing.

Spier Mackay made to order suit

When you want to strike the right balance and make a statement without totally dominating your overall ensemble, you should experiment with both solids and patterns.

The pocket square is a versatile piece of clothing that can be worn to a variety of occasions, from formal business meetings to casual weekend get-togethers.

It can be worn with a variety of different outfits. If you want to achieve a laid-back summer look, choose a navy blazer and a pocket square made of white linen.

Alternatively, if you want to add flair to a black-tie ensemble, choose a bold silk option. Keep in mind that the most important thing is to find a balance that is in accordance with the dress code of the event.

FAQ

Why wear a pocket square?

Pocket squares are great for many different occasions. For ultra-formal, tuxedo-requiring events, a classic white pocket square is practically mandatory.

However, electing to wear a pocket square in other events is completely up to the wearer. While I would not likely wear one to a funeral, I find it appropriate to wear at some weddings or other semi-formal to formal gatherings.

Pull Out Your Pocket Squares

In the world of men’s fashion, pocket squares are the unsung heroes that have the ability to take an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. 

They have the power to transform an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary. Recognize the value of folding, play around with different materials and hues, and allow your pocket square to be a reflection of your individual sense of style. 

This accessory, which is relatively small but has a significant impact, will not only help you to improve your wardrobe, but it will also demonstrate your keen eye for detail and your dedication to achieving sartorial excellence.

Let me know your favorite folds and patterns below in the comments!

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About Ryan Hallstrom

TMM's Senior Editor, Ryan Hallstrom is from Horseheads, NY, the only town in America named in honor of military packhorses. When he’s not writing about menswear, Ryan enjoys reading, whittling, running, and perfecting his penmanship.

Background: In 2021, Ryan graduated from Brigham Young University where he majored in American Studies and Russian. Before completing his schooling, he had a wide range of job titles including finish carpenter, usher, elevator operator (yes, that’s a real job), landscaper, tour guide, and more.

In January 2022, Ryan began working full-time as The Modest Man’s Senior Editor. In this role, he not only edits all articles prior to publication but also is a frequent contributor to the blog. He enjoys crafting in-depth product reviews (often testing items in extreme environments), helpful self-improvement articles, and detailed clothing guides.

His interest in men’s style stems from the examples of men in his family:

“Growing up, a lot of the men I looked up to dressed well. My dad is always clean-shaven and makes sure that he looks presentable before heading out the door, and my grandfather, who owned and operated a dairy farm, usually wore work pants with a sharp crease and a button-up work shirt.”

However, it wasn’t until the end of high school that Ryan began to care about how he looked. Gradually, over the next few years, he started to dress better and learn about style. “Finding clothes that fit helped me to become more confident. I find that when I try to dress well, I feel better.”

Expertise: Ryan has loved writing since an early age, and in college began contributing to and editing for university publications. After college, he began freelance writing and editing. He’s written from blogs and magazines such as Real Men Real Style, Life in the Finger Lakes, and Gentleman Within.

An avid traveler who spends plenty of time outdoors, Ryan appreciates clothes, footwear and accessories that can take a beating. His reviews often include long-term, thorough testing in extreme weather conditions.

Ryan has also spent more time in a suit and tie than most guys, so he's well qualified to write about classic menswear, business casual and formalwear.

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