A brief guide on how to style this timeless staple.
I began to upgrade my personal style in my teens. One of the first things I did was buy a few pairs of chinos to replace the jeans I wore every day.
At some point, I bought an olive green pair, though I wasn’t sure I would ever wear them.
Before that, I’d only worn olive green in the Boy Scouts. I still associate the color with camping and too-long awards ceremonies. I also didn’t know what I could pair them with.
Despite my initial hesitancy, that pair of green chinos quickly became one of my favorite items to wear and style. And while they ended up splitting right down the middle a few years later, olive green pants have since become an enduring staple in my wardrobe.
Both timeless and versatile, olive green pants are a subtle way to step out of your comfort zone and up your style. They evoke the simplicity yet refinement of a bygone era.
While there are several types of olive pants available, today, I’ll be focusing specifically on chinos.
Shirts: A Guide on Color
Here, I’ve compiled a few suggestions on how to know what colors do and don’t work with olive green.
Spoiler Alert: more things work with green than you might initially think!
The Plain White Tee
Olive green and white are a timeless combo that can’t be beat.
Going out for a casual night in the city or staying in with friends? The simplest way to begin styling olive green pants is to throw on a crisp white t-shirt and some brown boots. An easy and efficient look that will never go out of style.
I almost forgot — try an off-white tee instead. Off-white, ivory, or whatever marketing departments call it, seems somehow more refined.
It’s also incredibly easy to add layers to this combination. A navy blue, brown, or black casual jacket would look great on top. A jacket adds warmth, of course, and also adds visual depth.
Another way to slightly upgrade the white/green is to swap out the t-shirt for a casual white button-up, tucked or untucked. And if you favor darker styles, a plain black t-shirt can look just as good while maintaining that minimalist, clean look.
Naturals and Neutrals
Sometimes I want something a bit more interesting than plain white tees. In that case, my go-to choices to pair with olive green pants are other natural colors. These include browns, tans, grays, beiges, and everything in between.
These colors evoke a forgotten sense of simplicity in clothing. But, when put together in the right combination they can also portray maturity and sophistication.
Worried that tan will make you look more like a Scoutmaster or a forest ranger than a connoisseur of style? Try untucking your shirt (just make sure it’s not too long). Or you can add a third color. You might try a darker blue button-up left open over a tan t-shirt or a tan jacket over a navy t-shirt.
Keep in mind that when going for a more natural or earthy look. Linen and denim fabrics work well to create a homespun style reminiscent of an older era. If you’re looking for ideas on how to craft great vintage outfits, check out this superb guide to nostalgic fashion.
Finally, when it comes to gray and green, you can’t really go wrong. If you’re a follower of scorpacciata, consider lighter grays in the spring/summer and darker in the fall/winter.
Cooler Colors
I love natural colors. Sometimes, though, I need options that are a little more vibrant or that feel less out of place in an urban environment. Cooler colors like blue and dark purple are a great way to complement olive green pants without drowning them out.
For blues, I try to stick to subdued shades in order to provide that contrast. Any blue mixed with gray will work well, light or dark.
Conversely, a natural color like olive green can look out of place beside a bright or neon blue.
I don’t often wear purple with olive green. There’s an incredibly thin line between looking classy and becoming a color-matching cosplay. You don’t want to look like the Hulk or Joker or any other of the purple/green-themed characters from comics.
The best way I’ve found to avoid accidental cosplay is to lean towards either extreme of the purple spectrum. A light lavender color will avoid comparisons, as will any purple mixed with red like a dark wine or grape color.
In general, avoid matching green with green; it will come off as either too matchy-matchy. Or you might come off like a mid-20th-century dictator.
Warmer Colors
If you’re looking for warmer colors to brighten up an outfit with green pants, stick to yellows and reds, avoiding practically any shade of orange.
When combining yellow with olive green, I prefer more subdued hues to brighter ones. (Honestly, I don’t really wear yellow.)
Some people recommend staying away from red altogether when styling green pants. That said, I think red and green can work well during the darker seasons. Faded or rustic reds work well in summer and autumn, particularly flannel button-ups over a white shirt.
As I get closer to the holiday season in winter, I tend to swap out the flannel for a burgundy or maroon Oxford shirt with green chinos and a brown belt.
For those of you with shorter legs and longer torsos, I find that a tucked shirt can help create visual harmony. The idea is to balance out proportions by trimming the visual line of the torso.
The Accouterments
A few additional points on styling olive green pants:
Pant Variations
Chinos are the most common form of olive green pants in modern style. Olive jeans and shorts work just as well for more casual occasions.
In these cases, I’m more likely to wear a t-shirt or a polo. Oxford shirts are better paired with chinos.
Shoes
Olive green pants are a great opportunity to break out white sneakers. I tend to avoid wearing white shoes with jeans (I personally think it makes the jeans look too washed out), but with green pants, a white shirt, and a denim jacket it somehow works.
If you want something a little nicer, you can’t ever go wrong with leather under that olive green. Loafers and boots in black and brown will both look great so long as you match the tones.
I personally prefer darker brown leathers with olive green, but both light and reddish browns also work just as well and might fit your tastes better.
Black leather will work especially well with neutral or cooler color shirts. Try to avoid wearing black and brown at the same time. Black doesn’t work as well with earthy colors. There are exceptions, but it’s complicated.
Jackets
When it comes to jackets, older styles can style well with olive green. Leather jackets in black and brown and bomber jackets in tan and navy work well.
Denim jackets in blue and white also look particularly good, especially when paired with some kind of boot.
If you’re looking for something more professorial, a tweed jacket in any natural color works well. If you go this route, dust off those elbow patches. Get ready for people to jokingly ask when you got back from the Great War. (This actually happened to my friend the first time he wore tweed.)
Metal Accessories
Because olive green has yellow tones, gold-colored accessories will naturally bring those warm colors out. They can make your outfit more vibrant.
However, silver works too. (Don’t worry too much about matching outfit colors and metals.
Hues of Green: A Note on Seasons
One final note: while I find plenty of occasions to wear my olive green pants year-round, I also like to rotate in a lighter pair of sage green shorts during warmer months. They’re a great way to maintain that natural feel while also lightening your look for summer fun.
There it is — your quick guide to styling those olive green pants that you’ve been wondering what to do with.
Leave your questions in the comment section below!
Ryan Hallstrom, TMM’s Senior Editor, hails from the historic town of Horseheads, NY. When not crafting articles on menswear, he enjoys reading, whittling, running, and calligraphy.
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Fashion Collectionz
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