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Should You Wear a Breton Stripe? Oui ou Non?

Published on March 27, 2024 by Karlton Miko Tyack · Clothing and Style

Here’s everything you need to know about the Breton striped shirt, from its history and style connotations to whether or not it’s right for you.

Table of Contents

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  • What Is a Breton Stripe
  • The Breton Stripe Shirt: A Little History
  • The Men Who Wore Stripes
  • How To Wear Breton Stripes
  • FAQ
  • Conclusion: Should You Wear a Breton Stripe?
Photo by AndrewLozovyi / Depositphotos.com

A tiger may not be able to change its stripes, but you sure can. Or rather, you can change into them, as well as out of them. 

People in different subcultures and different style genres have long expressed themselves through patterns. 

The grunge set incorporated plaid flannel in a different way than did the outdoorsmen they inherited it from. Leopard has been worn by almost every subculture, from French nobility to fierce modern ladies.

Today, we’re focusing on the Breton stripe. A style of top that’s simultaneously neutral yet consequential to your overall outfit. How is that possible?

Read on to find out.

What Is a Breton Stripe

At its most traditional, a Breton stripe shirt is a white cotton shirt featuring horizontal navy blue stripes, a three-quarter-length sleeve, and a low-cut neck hem. This style of neck is also called a boat neckline.

It gets its name because tailors from Bretagne, France, made them for the French Navy.

These days, tops with white and navy stripes, or even white and black stripes, might be referred to as a Breton shirt. They may have long sleeves like a henley, they could be a thick pullover, and they could even have short sleeves. 

Sometimes, designers even categorize crewneck striped tops as being a Breton. Though technically, it would be a Breton-style top. There are even designs with collared necklines, giving it a rugby shirt look.

Still, in the modern day, each remix gives off a slightly different tone of the same aesthetic: Coastal, fashionable, and a little vintage.

Other names for the Breton include a tricot rayé, which literally means striped knit in French, or a marinière shirt. (Marinière translates to sailor.)

The Breton Stripe Shirt: A Little History

The Breton can be worn in a European-chic way, as a breezy coastal cool garment, or even as a pop of design in a workwear context. Once you learn a little history about this shirt, you’ll understand why it’s associated with so many styles.

In 1858, the French Navy made the Breton shirt officially part of the uniform. The stark stripes made men easy to spot.

This was whether they had fallen overboard and needed rescuing or if they were waving the shirt in the air like a flag. Easy removal was the reason for the low, flared neckline and the three-quarter sleeves.

That’s why these horizontal stripes are also often referred to as nautical stripes.

Because of its origins, the shirt has both utilitarian connotations as well as a general association with the French. England has their countryside aesthetic, America has general Americana, and the French have their Breton.

When you think of classic, quintessential (even stereotypical) French style, what do you think of? Probably berets, neckerchiefs, and, importantly, a striped shirt.

In 1917, Coco Chanel incorporated this stripe into a nautical-themed collection. Since then, it’s made the natural journey from French-inspired high ladies’ fashion to resort chic to the universally classy coastal cool approach. Anyone can sport a Breton shirt with canvas shorts and slip-ons on a summer day.

Part of this was thanks to the sailor-focused heritage brand Saint James. They were one of the first clothiers to make Breton shirts for the greater public.

The Men Who Wore Stripes

As always, male fashion icons played a big role in the style genres the Breton made its way into. Plus, these tried-and-trues are a good way to figure out how nautical stripes can be styled based on what you have in your closet.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Kelly Corroon (@corroon)

Paul Newman is known for his rugged yet classically handsome look. On the race track, he’s been known to wear a Breton stripe with jeans or subtly striped canvas pants and perfectly patinated boots. With his aviators, he gives the shirt street cred for the sporty set.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Cary Grant⭐️Classic Hollywood (@classiccarygrant)

Cary Grant famously wore a Breton-style shirt in How to Catch a Thief. With that neckerchief, he made the style popular for the dapper off-duty suit man.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Andy Warhol | Revolver Gallery (@andywarholgallery)

Andy Warhol, with his unmistakable hair, took the coastal vibes to urban style. As a tastemaker in New York society, he also brought the nautical stripes to the artsy set.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by James Dean (@jamesdean)

With his rugby-like collar, James Dean brings a youthful and boyish charm to the look. Through him, guys with a boy-next-door aesthetic, as well as rebel sensibilities, could incorporate the Breton into their combinations.

Thanks to these men and those like them, we just see stripes as simply stripes. However, the cultural and visual associations are so ingrained that they still add so much personality to your outfit.

How To Wear Breton Stripes

Of course, the most natural way to wear a Breton shirt is in a coastal holiday context. You can wear them with chino shorts and slip-on shoes. Boat shoes obviously go beautifully with the shirt, but you can even go for leather drivers or sleek loafers for a cosmopolitan look.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Sabir M. Peele (@mensstylepro)

You can also wear a Breton shirt with a suit silhouette. Go for a broken suit, such as a navy jacket and cream pants. Or, if it’s appropriate, go for that full suit — perhaps you’re on a smart casual business trip on an island.

A middle ground between the holiday approach and the smart casual approach is a broken suit with linen pants. You can add an open double-breasted suit with sleek leather slip-ons or even boat shoes if the situation is casual enough.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Miguel Angel 🧔🏽‍♂️ (@miguel_label7)

And don’t forget. The Breton shirt has utilitarian roots.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Andrés GM (@andresmescua)

It goes handsomely with workwear and denim, bringing a sense of fashion to the otherwise practicalist look.

FAQ

Here are some often-asked questions about the Breton!

How Many Stripes Should a Breton Shirt Have?

A traditional Breton shirt has 21 stripes, representing Napoleon’s 21 victories over England. 

Is a Breton Stripe the Same as a French Stripe?

Yes, the Breton was made in France and can also be referred to as a French stripe.

Why Is It called “Breton”?

It’s called Breton because tailors in Bretagne, France, made them for the French Navy.

Conclusion: Should You Wear a Breton Stripe?

Now, you know that almost any style can incorporate nautical stripes. Of course, it changes up the look and brings a level of coastal sensibilities or self-aware Frenchness.

If you’re unsure about the Breton but want to experiment, I recommend doing it in the summer. Doing it during a holiday or on the beach would make it seem less like a new thing in your wardrobe. 

Do you like striped shirts? Are you willing to try Bretons after this article? Let us know in the comments below!

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About Karlton Miko Tyack

Karlton Miko Tyack is a freelance writer covering watches, gear, and style. He was born in LA, studied art history in Boston, and is a lover of rugby, football, and optimism.

Background: Karlton studied art in Boston while working in local galleries. This led to a career in corporate art consulting, hunting down the perfect pieces for specific brand or business.

Transitioning into freelance writing, he moved back to his hometown of Los Angeles, where he managed top accounts with art publisher TASCHEN. His clientele included prominent names in fashion, luxury, and sports.

He then moved to NYC to work as a client liaison at Sotheby’s auction house in New York, where he worked with collectors of fine art, as well as watches, wine, and whiskey.

A lifelong watch enthusiast, Karlton has worked with quality timepieces of all price points and calibers, vintage and contemporary. Tyack’s watch obsession began when he received an Omega Seamaster for his 15th birthday.

Expertise: Through his work in fine art and with Sotheby's auction house, Karlton has developed a deep knowledge of timepieces, whiskey and menswear. He's written for publishers like LA Weekly and Harvard. Here at TMM, Karlton covers watches and men's fashion.

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