Being short and stout, even chubby, can exude a solidity and strength many other body types don’t have. However, you must dress for it. Here’s how!
There’s nothing wrong with being on the portly side. Many power-lifters, rugby or football linemen, and forwards are vertically small and horizontally wide. Some are even quite fat (and perfectly attractive). Many endomorphs, regardless of how muscular or chubby, must accommodate what I call short and stout style.
And though there’s nothing wrong with being short and stout or short and chubby, the clothing industry caters to the opposite body type. So maybe you think that there’s something off or “wrong” with your body. There isn’t, at least, not as a rule. All body types have their pros and cons. For my stouter friends, I say this: Whether you have more muscle or fat, you can harness your natural sturdiness to look your best. Here’s how to do that!
What Does It Mean To Be Stout?
Being stout basically means that your torso is as wide or wider than your shoulders. And this isn’t always because you’re overweight. It might be, but that’s between you and your doctor. It could also simply be due to your body type. Perhaps you just have smaller shoulders. Maybe you’re perfectly healthy but just a touch chubby.
I’ve heard it described as “built like a fire hydrant.” Regardless of what makes you broad in the torso, you’ll dress to highlight your body’s natural strength.
What Are the Challenges With Dressing This Body Type?
Unfortunately, the clothing industry doesn’t often cater to people whose shoulders are less broad than their waist. Thus, people often compromise fit somewhere on their bodies.
If you get the right waist and seat fit on your pants, it’ll often mean they’re too long or too baggy. If you find the right shoulder fit, the shirt’s body might be too tight around your stomach. Or if you do find the right fit for your waist area, the shirt might be generally too oversized everywhere else — or too long.
This might make you think you won’t find clothes that look great until you lose weight. However, you can look good in every part of your health journey. The style we’re discussing today is often called “chubby” or “big.” But those words are relative and subjective, so keep that in mind as we continue this exploration.
Chubby Stylish Clothes for Big Guys
Finding stylish clothes for big guys and chubby gents is all about highlighting your sturdy build and elongating where you can. This means the fit is of the utmost importance. Go for garments that sit close to your body and avoid excess fabric.
Let’s start with pants. Consider pants with gently tapered legs and a slim leg opening–typically labeled as a slim-straight fit. You’ll want the waist to be midrise or high-rise. If it sits below your natural waist instead of above your hip bones, you might muffin over them.
The good thing about wearing your trousers above your hip is they’re in style right now. And wearing them this way always looks good with regular fits. Which brings me to my next point: Avoid skinny-fit pants. They’ll widen your hips, throwing off your shoulder-to-waist ratio. Go for a fuller cut or even a slight flare to bring balance. Regardless of your body type, it’s all about creating straight lines throughout your silhouette and dressing taller.
Moving on to tops, well-structured shoulders are always flattering for short and stout men. Consider broad-shouldered flannels, button-ups, and well-structured T-shirts (Bleu de Chaffe makes a great one). Feel free to add subtle shoulder pads to your tops if you want. Just make sure they look natural. Don’t go for huge pads, especially if you’re wearing a thin, lightly woven shirt.
As always, if you can get your shirts and pants tailored, you should. I believe that men, especially short men, should tailor their dress trousers and button-ups most of the time.
Buy pants that fit your waist, even if they’re too long and baggy. Then, find a good tailor to hem them and add a taper. Shirts are trickier since shoulder adjustments can be complex and expensive. Instead, consider layers.
Colors, Patterns, Accessories, and Layers
This sounds counterintuitive since you’re trying to look less bulky. However, layers can really benefit and flatter your body.
For example, a darker, thinner button-up or button-down will make your waist area look slimmer. Again, a big waist is nothing to be ashamed of. However, what we’re doing here is trying to balance the overall silhouette.
Then, if you top off your now slimmed-down waist with an open shirt jacket or blazer, you’ll bring structure to your shoulders. Of course, you want a perfectly fitted piece of outerwear to do this.
If you can, and if you’re willing, go for suspenders or side tabs (they can also be more comfortable). Your suspenders will “float the waist” instead of letting your belly sit over your waistband. Besides, if you don’t like the look of suspenders, just wear a suit jacket or piece of outerwear to cover them.
Stick to solid colors and small-scale patterns, and feel free to mix solids and patterns. Black, navy, charcoal, and dark gray aren’t just slimming; they’re sophisticated and classy. So, you might consider a navy shirt with small-scale dots and a charcoal or dark, cool brown jacket over it. Even better, go for vertical stripes anywhere on your person, especially on garments closest to your body.
Consider a dark, pinstripe shirt with a denim jacket over it. The vertical stripes are slimming and lengthening, but the jacket adds diversity. It’s not just one big block of pattern. Moreover, it looks less obvious that you’re using visual strategies. Of course, there’s nothing wrong with using strategy. There’s just something naturally handsome about adding a touch of effortlessness to your outfit.
Suits for Short, Stocky Guys
Remember when I mentioned that you want to bring out your body type’s natural sturdiness and strength? Suits are a great way to do that. Think about it. They look natural in dark, classy colors. They’re naturally layered, and you can wear suits and suit separates casually, too.
Consider pairing a T-shirt with a suit for a smart casual approach or a broken suit with jeans or slacks for a weekend combination. Two-layer outfits look handsome on short and stout bodies, but obvious-looking three-layer outfits, not so much. So, avoid wearing a suit vest with your suit.
Many suit makers offer an “executive cut,” which offers a jacket design that flatteringly drapes over the jacket. Choose single-breasted styles over double-breasted ones because the former elongates your torso. Again, you want your pants to be tapered from the knee down.
Avoid shiny fabrics, but don’t avoid smaller-scale patterns like chalk stripes and mini checks. Anytime you can incorporate vertical lines, go for it!
Now that you know how to dress for a portly body type, I want to address an adjacent topic: the dad bod. So, exactly what is a dad bod?
Dad Bod Meaning
A dad bod is really just one that isn’t highly toned. Basically, it’s the type of body that most non-slim guys have. Let’s say you go to the gym once or twice a week and watch what you eat for the most part, but you often have dessert, and you don’t forgo your weekend beers. You might have a dad bod.
Fat deposits around the abdomen are the main characteristic of a dad bod, regardless of your body type.
Men tend to gain weight in their 30s (or, for me, my mid-20s) and well into their 50s and early 60s. That’s around the time that your body starts changing; perhaps you’re no longer in team sports, and you realize that you’re no longer “a growing boy.” However, you might still have the appetite of a growing boy. That being the case, many short and stout style strategies might apply to guys with dad bods.
If you’re thin but bigger in the waist, this guide can help you find outfits that flatter you. If you have small shoulders, a broad waist, and big muscular legs, this guide can help you find flattering tops and jackets. If you have an untoned waist that’s still smaller than your shoulders, I recommend you use dressing strategies associated with the mesomorph body type.
Conclusion: Short and Stout Men — You Look Good But May Not Realize It
Flattering short and stout style is admittedly hard to come by. But, just remember a few shorthands from this guide:
- Darker colors
- Structured shoulders
- Tapered, not skinny pants
- Small-scale patterns and vertical lines
- Light layers
You’ll realize that, like all body types, yours has pros and cons. However, just because the clothing industry doesn’t accommodate your pros as often, it doesn’t mean you don’t look great and can look great.
What are your go-to styling tips for short and stout dressing? Let us know in the comments below!
So glad I found this. It confirms what I’ve been telling my husband all along about what looks best on him. He’s 5’4” tall and his belly is bigger than his chest by 6” and it is impossible to find shirts so I alter them my self or just make them. They have a tent shape when they fit. Is there any place to get shirts that would fit better than what we have to buy?
Sorry, Lisa, you’re having trouble finding him shirts that fit. Unfortunately, altering shirts (or having them altered) after purchase is probably going to be your best option.
Your article was just what I needed to get my man feeling better about himself until he can drop the extra 100!!
Thank you so much!!!!
Nice, thanks for sharing information with us.
Hello, great article.
At 5’4″ & 230 lbs it is very difficult to find anything to fit properly. And it doesn’t help when there isn’t a standard for basic s,m,l,xl,xxl,+++ sizes one companies xl is far different than another’s. So ordering an xl online is very risky and even when I have ordered a 40″ w x 28 L they still get it wrong, my measurement read 37.5 inches w and 29 inches L. So I hate ordering custom online. And I’m on disability so my budget is very tight not much wiggle room to have $100 tied up waiting for a credit. Fortunately I hate to mention this company but Walmart has surprised me with a huge increase in clothing quality. I bought a pair of dark grey pants that has a slight taper and is slightly stretchy (needed after dinner), they sit very comfortably without the legs rising to highwater mark and I have gotten several complements on how good they look all for about $20. I know its rediculous but Walmart has stepped up their game with men’s fasion on a budget. Now that would make for a great article. “Men’s Fashion on a Budget”
Outfits for under $100 that also look great.
Pants – $20
Shirt – $20
Shoes – $40
Belt – $10
Sox – $7
You know what, lets see how good you are.
I challenge you to write an article using the above as a guide. I think you would be helping far more guys. And gain a larger audience to boot. As you know there are more low income people than high income people.
You choose the fashion genre, street, hip hop, red carpet, casual, hipster, ???
Thanks for reading, Pablo
I appreciate the article – BUT!!!
You refer to 5’8″, as if this was small [not when you’re only 5’3″].
Sushil Sekhar says he is 5’3″, and has to buy shirts that are M or L. He’s fortunate.
5’3″ and 46″ chest/17″ neck is a problem.
My observation/experience is that the genuinely shorter/stouter man has little or no hope of acceptable clothing.
Great article! I found tips like passing on the smaller ties helpful. The tip of avoiding skinny fit pants while also straying from excess fabric is a winner as well. I find my body type doesn’t get represented well anywhere. I’m short, wide and thick but not chubby/ no belly. The biggest problem is my wide legs. In any modern fit dress pant I usually have to opt for a loose waist fit so that my thighs aren’t stretching seams. It’s either that or get a baggy fit pant that looks terrible.
My son has the same issue, Lee or Levi and other brands (I think Target) offer an “athletic build” styling in pants that have a wider thigh area, but not additional length or wider calves.
Nice tips, especially for the pants – when you have wide hips and a big butt AS WELL as being short & stubby, life can seem rough. Although the stores have opened up a wider sortiment lately, it seems. Not everything is for tall and slim guys anymore!
There is a a picture of someoen wearing a striped suit. I agree on why it looks good, but would like to add: the stripes are vertical! It makes a lot of difference, but hard to find a pattern like that.
Any advice on wearing leather? Jacket, but also leather pants. Is it possible?
hi , Any casual style advice for summer as for how pants and short should look like for short men with really thick legs? my husband have a big bum and thick legs and he’s only 5”6”.. help
Thanks for the tips Brock. Being 5’3 and having to buy shirts which are M or L from clothing stores, leaves me really frustrated. Aside from the fact that living in Sweden makes me feel extremely under dressed and not finding the right clothes in stores leaves me extremely flustered. So going by the tone of what is written, I would guess it is almost always wise to go with alterations.
Yet, I am not sure if winter jackets or coats can be altered. Now that it is winter could you give some tips on how to dress up for the winter with regards to coats and jackets?
Thank you so much for this piece! I’m a lady shopping for her 70+ year old father who has put on a lot of weight and has some age related health issues BUT in his day was stylish. I want to find him some clothing that fits and looks good. I think this might do a great deal for his mental health as when you look good you feel good. I had no idea where to start looking for correctly proportional clothing for him, thank you so much for some great jumping off points.
You’re very welcome! Glad it was helpful.
When it comes to suits, cuffs or no cuffs?
The safer bet is no cuffs, but cuffs are okay too. Just make sure they’re not too tall (like 1.5″ max).
First I’ve heard of them. What’s your experience with the brand? Do you work with them, or have you tried them?
Thanks for this one – it was helpful.
While this one was aimed at the “stocky guy,” I hope you will be covering the short & athletic in the near future. The links that for Peter Everett & Jax are great, but for some of us, their stuff is the right height, but not wide enough. 🙁
Hey Brock, could you do one for short guys with a rather feminine body shape? I’d like to know some tips on not looking so “dainty” and “feminine”. I’ve got narrow shoulders and a fairly large waist/hip area. 34s jacket and 29 pants generally but the hips make it hard for some shirts, etc.
TL:DR Tips for guys with this body type, maybe slightly larger hip area and less shoulder breadth
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Better pictures: like the first one or the one on the right.
Best article yet. With a 44 chest, 34 waist and 29 inseam, I have certainly experienced the issues addressed in this article!
Thanks! Glad to hear this stuff rings true for you.
Everyone’s comments are of value and it’s nice to see these things being addressed. For myself I’m a good bit more overweight and I’ve never really worried about these things as I’ve always worked in the construction industry. At 62 I’m now working in an office environment and my jeans (40 x 28 or 29 sometimes 30) which would need to be bigger to pull up to my waist and my 2 XX Pocket T’s just aren’t getting it. Without my work belt on I’m constantly fighting with pulling my pants up and obviously the T-shirt just isn’t getting it. I really hate actual slacks and I just can’t find anything that works. While I don’t have much to spend; it would help if I could find things I could be confident in. Any suggestions would valued. Thanks
My son is 5’4″ and weighs 215 lbs. He will only wear Men’s Haggar® Premium Comfort Straight-Fit Flat-Front Dress Pants, They look great on him. They have a tapered leg. You should look for “straight fit”. You can buy them from Target for $40.
Ditto! At 42 chest, 34 w, and 29 inseam, I needed this advice to redo my wardrobe. Maybe someday I’ll get back to a 30 waist, but until then I need to dress batter!
I hate to always be a contrarian here because I do agree with much that is written. Two things. First, if I had that sort of build I would avoid tapered lower legs of any sort. To me they throw the lower body out of proportion. Straight fit is usually the best for the fireplug build, and for most guys really.
In the pictures of the Seinfeld character ( don’t know his name), I don’t think the second picture looks any better than the first. Look at his head. It is big and the tight clothes make it look huge. He looks stuffed into his clothes and a little more fabric would do him well. In truth, the first picture is not great, but I actually prefer it to the second. Tailoring doesn’t always mean close fitting.
I agree with what you are doing Brock, in breaking proper fit for short guys down further. In reality there are so many variables, head size, as I mentioned, is just one example. We can further categorize people by side to side width, front to back, hair style, arm length, proportions of the upper to lower body or a hundred more factors and still we wouldn’t cover everything. There is a gestalt element to fashion that in the end is difficult to break down and systematize. This is why the rules are flexible.
First thing I do when I try something on is to ask myself, “How do I look”, with no reference to any rule about color, fit, placement of any detail, or any rule I know about dressing. Just my first reaction. Then I can start getting into the whys about my reaction and the hows of how to fix it.
Thanks, as always, for sharing your thoughts! One comment on the straight vs. slim leg. These days, words like that mean almost nothing because vary so much from one brand to another.
Technically, straight leg should mean there’s no taper from the knee down – so the circumference of the pant leg at the knee is the same as at the ankle.
Slim, on the other hand, means there’s some amount of taper. But it could be just an inch or two. It’s totally different depending on the brand and style.
So rather than saying “stout men should wear straight” or “stout men should wear slim”, the best advice is to try it on and see for yourself.
On that note, I like your method of trying things on and being honest with yourself. “How do I look?” is a great place to start.
And yeah, fitting anyone specific body is very complicated. That’s why bespoke suits cost thousands of dollars and take weeks to produce!
For the record, though, I think Jason Alexander looks way better in the fitted suit (although maybe there’s a middle ground that would work better for him).
Great advice! What amazes me is how poorly dressed some actors are. You’d think they’d have access to stylists and PR hacks to help them dress properly especially for red-carpet events.
I know! I’ll never understand how someone ends up in a $5,000 tux with pants that are 4″ too long… I guess money doesn’t solve this particular problem.
Thank you for the excellent and detailed advice, but especially for making your biog more inclusive. Not only are you doing a service to short men who are stout, you are also helping older short men like me who have added extra pounds over the years.
You’re very welcome! Good point about age. I’m planning on writing more about the older gents too. Definitely lots of crossover there.
Your thoughts are very much appreciated
David