Explore the Rolex Explorer II: a rugged, timeless watch perfect for casual guys. Discover its appeal in this review!
The Rolex Explorer II 16570 is a very good everyday watch. Such a statement should be surprising to few. But, there’s a little more to the story.
In fact, these “Polar” dials have dramatically increased in value in the last three or four years. I spent two weeks with one to speak on build, fit, styling, and what works and what doesn’t.
I’d like to give a special thanks to Bob’s Watches for the loaner. I’m happy to offer my perspective as a mere plebeian who just happens to like things that tick.
A Brief History of the Explorer II
While (literal) volumes have been written about this sort of thing, it’s worth setting the context for the watch. In this section, I’ll be abridging from this excellent article from Greg Bedrosian over at Beyond the Dial. He offers the best summary I’ve seen of the entire Explorer II series.
The Explorer II, much like the Explorer I, is a tool watch designed for action, adventure, and functionality. The II was, indeed, originally conceived for that most ‘action-packed’ activity- spelunking.
It should surprise no one it didn’t exactly take off. A rare miss from the Crown, at least at first.
The 16570, while the most (and longest) produced of the Explorer, wasn’t the first iteration of the piece. Between 1971 and 1984, Rolex made the Reference 1655.
Key features of the piece included one dial option (black), vertical markers between even hours on the bezel, a Caliber 1575 automatic movement with a date wheel, tritium luminated indices, and an oversized, bright orange GMT hand.
This may be referred to as the “Steve McQueen,” though, unlike the Persol 714 sunglasses with a blue tint, he wasn’t known to wear the watch.
The first five-number reference, the 16550, gets us one step closer to a more modern version. We add a millimeter to an even 40mm, replace the vertical markers with inverted triangles for a sporter touch. We also swap the luminated hour markers for luxurious (and very 80’s) white gold surrounds.
Unlike most things in the over-the-top ’80s, the GMT hand changes color to red and slims out. It, along with the Mercedes hands and the Caliber 3085 movement, is a direct lift from the GMT-Master II. And, while the 16550 was offered with a white or black dial, both had problems with the paint.
The white patinates to a custard, while the black tended to crack- or spider-over in a few years’ time. This, ironically, makes these more valuable collectors’ items.
This brings us to the 16570, produced in four variations between 1989 and 2011.
Models between 1989 and 2005 feature the Caliber 3185 movement, while those between ‘05 and ‘11 have the 3186. Versions made after about 1998 say “Swiss Made” at the 6 o’clock position.
However, earlier versions say “SWISS-T<25” at the 6-. Subtle variations also appeared with the application of Super-Luminova in 1998.
The Rolex Explorer II 16570 Inside and Out
Here are some spec details of the Rolex II:
Movement
My version contains the 3185 Caliber. It’s an automatic movement with 28800 vibrations per hour, 50 jewels, and a 50 hour power reserve. It’s the same as the GMT-Master II from the time period.
True watch nerds will geek out about a ‘wiggle’ in the GMT hand. As a general enthusiast, I didn’t notice much of it during my time with the watch.
The sweep isn’t as silky smooth as the 3186, but it’s that part of the charm of not only this but of all mechanical and automatic watches. It’s a reminder these are more than little mechanical marvels you can wind up and stick on your wrist. They have a quirk. A personality. A soul, even.
I suppose this is one of the many reasons we like them.
Dial
It would be easy to say ‘white is white’ and leave it. But there is something aesthetically pleasing about this stark white.
The Polar dial is crisp, clean, and unblemished — exactly the way you’d expect an Arctic snowpack to look as dawn peeks out over the horizon. Even as I write this, in the middle of April in the Northern Hemisphere, I feel a little chill.
The matte finish is without sheen or silvery undertones. I suppose this is by design. The Arctic, when tilted toward the Sun, is a surprisingly bright place. A reflective dial would be quite difficult to read in direct sunlight. But, I had no issues telling the time even on the brightest of the brisk early spring days.
The Super-Luminova picks up, as the name implies, brings a ton of luminescence as I come in from an outdoor dog walk. While this would certainly be a benefit in the depths of a cave, I don’t find myself pining for it when it’s not present.
Case
Even, delicate, radial brushing extends outward from the center for a matte, glare-reducing finish. Again, this is deeply useful in the case of exploration, where sunbeams dancing across the face of pristine glaciers are, almost literally, blinding.
Not being Shackleton, I did find some practical use in the brushing, as it makes for a pleasant glancing experience in the bright sun. It’s a nice contrast to the highly polished, slightly ‘bling-y’ surfaces of my Omega Aqua.
The 40mm case size is excellent, even on my 6.7” (17cm) wrist. In the Polar dial, it wears perhaps 1mm (give or take a little) larger over the surface. It makes it highly legible without overwhelming or feeling like a dinner plate.
That said, if you’ve got a truly slender-say, under 16cm-wrist, this might be a little dominating. You might do well to consider the black dial, which will help the watch wear a little smaller.
I’d steer clear of later models than the 16570, though. 42mm, especially in a white dial, is just too big unless you have a good reason to need to see the exact time. Otherwise, it smacks of a time when everyone was wearing hubcaps on their arms.
Another element I appreciate about the Polar Dial is the thinness of the case. Many sports watches, even my Aqua Terra, have a rather difficult time slipping easily under a shirt cuff. But, the svelte 3185 movement and a flat sapphire keep it at a tidy 12mm. This fits easily under any of my shirts.
Bracelet
The vertical brushing here flows well with the radial brushing from the case. The famous ‘Oyster’ bracelet contours nicely to my wrist, and the links are a nice middle ground. They’re not so thick they don’t wrap around the wrist, but not so thin they appear delicate.
The bracelet is lighter than expected, especially compared to the heft of my Aqua Terra. At first blush, it felt a little too light-flimsy, even.
The links jangled a bit as I closed the clasp for the first time. But, much like my experience with the Omega Speedmaster Co-Axial 38 earlier this year, the watch molded to my wrist the more time I spent with it.
After a few hours of wear, I didn’t realize it was there. Some may like that. Others might want something more substantial.
Size and Fit
Much of the wearing experience comes down to being able to dial in your fit. As I’ve acknowledged before, I’m notoriously difficult to size. I can’t stand watches rolling around my wrist and tend to wear them a little more snug than most. But, I also don’t wear anything tight.
The width of my fingers and, yes, even my wrists, fluctuate wildly in size depending on the temperature and how long I’ve been sitting or standing, which can make wearing steel bands uncomfortable. Even my beloved Aqua Terra can be irritating when it gets above 80 or below 40 Fahrenheit.
Here, though, the springs on the microadjust are so snappy, so-easy-to use that it takes literally a few seconds. Actually, the watch was a few clicks too loose when it arrived from Bob’s.
I was able to adjust it on my own with a simple spring bar tool. So, I’d have no issue moving a few clicks depending on the season, or even the day, to help the watch fit the way I’d like it to.
What Works
I really enjoy the proportions, the feeling of quiet luxury, and the dial of this watch.
Proportion
Most parts of the 16570 are proportionate and exactly as it ‘should’ be. The numbers on the bezel are easy to read, but they don’t overwhelm the dial itself. The indices are bright and legible, but it isn’t a lume monster.
The badging and text aren’t garish or superfluous, as I think some of the more recent sport Rolex models can be.
The bracelet, the more I think of it, is proportional, too. It’s a much lower profile than my Aqua Terra. It hides under a shirt cuff but isn’t so demure as to be delicate.
Quiet Luxury.
I think an element of understatedness is missing in contemporary Rolexes. Modern datejusts are FLASH. GMTs are Cerachromed out, and don’t even get me started on the Day-date. Rows upon rows of ‘official’ text to make sure you, and everybody around you, knows you bought a Rolex! It’s just too much.
But, I suppose that’s kind of the point and the ‘flex’ of a Rolex. They’re supposed to be blinged out. For me, though, this is my kind of Rolex. Especially for everyday use cases.
If you have one of these, it shows you’ve dug a little deeper. You appreciate history. Innovation. Creativity. And purpose. Something other than a really expensive piece of steel.
Dial
Some out there prefer the black. But, I think the white is a little more unusual. And, in my view, it’s much better as an ‘everyday’ piece.
What Doesn’t
Honestly, very little does not work here. It’s easy to style the Rolex Explorer II 16570. The watch is proportional, comfortable, and well-made to the standard you’d expect from the Crown.
I wear it with jeans and tees, chinos and a Shetland sweater. It’s also a great complement to a casual jacket or shacket.
I’d also consider this with a patterned sportcoat, some flannel trousers, and some mid-formality dress shoes. Think of some pebbled leather derbies or a pair of suede Oxfords.
In my everyday life, as someone who works from home most of the time and tends to dress rather casually when I’m out and about, it’s a versatile piece for my everyday wardrobe.
However, as sport watches go, it’s harder to dress this up. That said, pairing it with the classic ‘menswear uniform’ of a navy blazer and grey flannel pants is easy enough. However, it may not go quite as well as, say, the Datejust or classic Oyster Perpetual would. (Or even my Aqua Terra.)
Additionally, I probably wouldn’t wear this watch if I was wearing a tie.
So, while it’s a versatile watch, I wouldn’t call it a candidate for a true one-watch collection.
Why Are These So Popular? And Who Should Wear Them?
For all the grief Rolex has gotten about supply chain issues, this certainly wasn’t the case in the production heyday of the 16570. The company made a TON of these things. They were fairly easy to get your hands on.
But, much like rappers and artists, some things become more popular after they’re gone. This is the case here. We, as consumers, simply want what we can’t have.
Rolex caved to consumer demand with the development of the 216570 42mm. (Customers asked for larger timepieces in the late 2000s/early 2010s.)
Luckily, with the welcome return to classic sport sizing, the 40mm versions are seeing a resurgence. And, given how the style pendulum has swung far more casual, the demand for stainless steel sport watches is nearing a fever pitch.
So, who should wear the 16570? Honestly, wear what you like. If you enjoy the style, go for it.
I believe the best candidates are people who generally favor a casual style but need to throw on a sportcoat every now and then. You want something a little different than everyone else but still want the Crown logo.
In the end, the Explorer is a very, very good everyday watch.
If you have questions or comments leave them down below!
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