This in-depth guide to outerwear for shorter men will help you stay warm without sacrificing style. Read on to learn more.
Finding a well-fitted, comfortable jacket is often an uphill battle for short men. Most coats are too long or bulky, making you look shorter than you actually are. It can be frustrating when many outerwear fashion options seem geared towards taller men. This limits the choices that best complement your body type. This factor alone is why you should acquaint yourself with the best outerwear for short men.
Measuring on the short side does not mean settling for ill-fitting outerwear. With the right tricks up your sleeve, you can choose outerwear that elongates your frame. In turn, you give yourself a sharp and well-balanced appearance. We’ll say it repeatedly: fit is the most important aspect of style!
In this guide, we’ll explore the best types of outerwear for men of modest height. Additionally, we’ll cover several fashion tips, so you’ll no longer need to compromise on style or fit.
How Should a Jacket Fit?
Several factors contribute to achieving the ideal jacket fit but pay special attention to the sleeve length, shoulder area and overall length. When wearing an overcoat, it’s important to avoid any excess bulk while still retaining a tailored look. This can be difficult, especially because you typically wear overcoats with multiple layers underneath.
Length is key to creating a streamlined appearance while wearing an overcoat. An overcoat that goes well past the knees can make you appear shorter. On the other hand, one that’s too short lacks warmth and won’t look as good. Try aiming for around mid-thigh.
Since you wear overcoats in layers, leave a little space around your shoulders and hips. This will ensure that the layers underneath your overcoat are still comfortable and won’t jeopardize a slim silhouette. Your jacket or overcoat should be comfortable through the torso whether you layer or not. In the shoulders, the seams should align with the natural curve of your shoulders.
Fine-tuning how to wear an overcoat can be tricky, but ultimately, they are an excellent addition to any man’s wardrobe. This is particularly due to their versatility and classic look– you can wear them with hoodies and suits alike.
Outerwear 101: What To Avoid Doing
We’ll say it again: fit is the most important aspect of style. So, are short men out of luck when it comes to outerwear? No. Fortunately, you can follow some fundamental guidelines to ensure your cold-weather style is on point. It’s mostly about what NOT to do.
Just remember these two rules:
- 1. Avoid bulky outerwear
- 2. Don’t wear coats that go past your knees.
Remember these two rules as you shop for outerwear this season, and you’ll be all set. Everything else is just icing on the cake. Now, let’s take a closer look at the finer points of wearing outerwear as a shorter guy.
Tips for Wearing Outerwear as a Shorter Guy
Above all, remember this: style is subjective. Other than simply wearing clothes, we all get dressed for different reasons. Some of us want to “dress taller” to boost our confidence. Some of us want to look more professional. And, of course, some of us just want to stay warm and comfortable without looking sloppy. Regardless, there’s nothing wrong with any of these reasons.
The point is that I hope you don’t see the tips below as strict rules. Instead, consider them flexible guidelines — principles you can follow, bend, or break to suit your needs and preferences. Now that we’ve got that disclaimer out of the way, here are my best tips for wearing outerwear as a man of modest height.
Tip #1: Avoid Bulky Outerwear
We can all agree you don’t want to look like the Michelin Man. This look doesn’t flatter any body type, but it’s especially bad for shorter men. Most winter jackets contain some sort of insulation, which adds bulk and weight to the garment. Though warmth is more important than style, any bulkiness will be over-emphasized by your small stature.
Consider puffer jackets — those quilted jackets stuffed with goose down. Sure, they’re warm, but they add way too much unnecessary bulk and padding to your body. If you wear a puffer jacket, make sure it’s thinner and small in scale (i.e., small puffs). One of my favorite puffer jackets for short men is from Everlane. It’s nice and thin, and I covered one in this Everlane review. Plus, it’s reversible and has a handy double zipper.
The bottom line is to stay away from overly thick and bulky outerwear.
Tip #2: Think Twice Before Wearing Full-Length Coats
The hard truth is that most short men just don’t look good in coats that go past their knees. After all, we can’t all be James Dean. Any coat that goes past your knees will be tough to pull off. It needs to fit perfectly. Dean’s coat, as shown above, fits wonderfully, yet it is probably the result of multiple expensive alterations. And because this isn’t the 50s, and I’m not James Dean, I often prefer shorter coats. A mid-thigh length is a great option for shorter guys.
That said, even as a man of modest height, you can still rock a long overcoat. It just takes an extra boost of swagger to pull it off. Sure, it might technically make you look shorter. However, there’s a certain devil-may-care self-confidence that comes with wearing one anyway.
For one thing, longer coats are almost always warmer than their shorter counterparts. I will admit, however, they’re not for everyone. I’d still recommend an above-the-knee-length overcoat for the average short guy looking to get their first formal winter coat.
Tip #3: Watch Your Sleeve Length
Sleeve length can make or break your outfit. Too short, and you can end up looking awkwardly undersized. Too long, and you might seem like you’re drowning in fabric. Typically, if your coat fits perfectly, the sleeves should end at your wrist—not down around your palms.
This is the most common outerwear fit problem for short guys because, simply put, most sleeves are just too long. You do not want to look like you’re playing “dress up” as if you just stole a coat from your dad’s closet. When the sleeves are too long, it’s not a great look. If they fall past your first thumb joint, they’re too long.
An overcoat’s sleeves should fully cover your dress shirt (and suit) sleeves. However, it also shouldn’t go down to your fingers. The sleeves in the photo above are just about perfect. But you can get away with having them an inch to an inch and a half longer.
How can you fix your sleeves if they aren’t the right length? I’m glad you asked.
Tip #4: Enlist the Help of a Tailor
It’s uncommon to find tailored clothing that fits perfectly off-the-rack — that’s where an alterations tailor can help. Having a tried and true tailor on speed dial is always a good idea. Especially if getting an ideal off-the-rack fit is rare.
You may find a coat that fits well but is a bit too long in the sleeves. Your next steps depend on the type of jacket. This is a straightforward and relatively inexpensive alteration for some jackets, like a wool topcoat without functioning sleeve buttons. However, tailoring a waterproof jacket is much more complicated, as mistakes can compromise the waterproofing and insulation.
A reputable tailor can accomplish both. The key is to find a tailor who knows what they’re doing. When buying a new jacket, ask the store or the manufacturer you purchased from if they can accommodate alterations in-house. If they say no, ask them to recommend a tailor.
You may have to send the jacket to a specialty shop. I’d recommend New England Reproofers and Rainy Pass Repair. These specialty tailors take longer and are more expensive than your local tailor, but getting that perfect fit is worth it.
Tip #5: Layer Up for Warmth
Instead of wearing one super-warm coat, which tends to be bulky, you can layer up with multiple lightweight layers. I love wearing a turtleneck under a medium to heavy-weight jacket. This combo is perfect for those days when it’s cold in the morning, warmer during the day, then freezing again at night.
Suits are also a slimmer option in cold weather, making them a great additional layer. Deciding how to wear suits in winter has certain nuances, but if you’re going for a formal look, they are an excellent option to stay warm.
By wearing layers, you can be stylish and warm — the ultimate cold-weather combo. Plus, you can always add or remove a layer when the temperature changes. Here’s more info on how to wear layers.
Tip #6: Scale Down the Details
Finding a jacket that flatters a shorter build isn’t just about fit. It’s also about scale. You want to find jackets that have smaller details. This is especially important for parkas, down jackets, and peacoats.
Scaling outfits to your frame works because small details create a more proportional and streamlined look. This will help balance your overall shorter stature without drawing too much attention to the jacket. For reference, here’s an article about how to find good parkas for shorter guys.
The puffer jacket is an excellent example of the importance of scale. Practically every puffer jacket — which is just an insulated jacket with a quilted exterior — has some sort of visual pattern on the outside. A smaller scale will work better for smaller guys, whether the pattern is diamonds, lines, or even squares.
For peacoats, pay attention to details like pockets and lapels. If you’re a short, thin man, super wide lapels will look oversized on your frame. For parkas, try to avoid huge patch pockets and oversized fur-trimmed hoods. Slant pockets and shearling-lined hoods work much better, in my opinion.
If you don’t have luck finding a coat scaled to your frame, don’t hesitate to check out the kids’ section. I have a Patagonia parka that’s a youth XL. It’s the same quality as the adult version, with a better fit for half the price.
The bottom line is to pay attention to the scale and fit.
The Best Outerwear for Short Guys
Since we just talked about what not to wear, you might wonder what kind of outerwear I should wear. Choosing the right piece of outerwear helps you streamline your stature. If you’re unsure where to start, here are some of the best outerwear options for shorter guys.
1. Topcoat
If you don’t have a go-to coat for more dressy scenarios, you should consider a caramel, navy, or charcoal topcoat. Brands typically make these coats for short men from thick wool and fully line them, which makes them warm and toasty. Again, the perfect length is about halfway down your thighs.
People may tell you that short guys can’t wear long coats. That’s not entirely true. A mid-thigh coat can actually elongate your figure in a way that shorter coats cannot.
Although topcoats work great when you dress up, don’t feel the need to reserve your topcoat only for dressy situations. They can work casually, too. A good topcoat isn’t cheap, but it’s one of those wardrobe staples worth investing in.
2. Slim-Fit Parka
While parkas can sometimes be oversized and too long for shorter gentlemen, some fit very nicely. Even if you’re not super slim, I recommend checking out a “slim fit” parka for a trimmed-down, closer-fitting version of this essential outerwear style. I reviewed the Alpha Industries N3-B Slim Parka and highly recommend it.
To ensure your parka doesn’t overwhelm your frame, avoid bulky items such as fur trim and big pockets that balloon out. Also, if you’re going for a down-filled parka, choose one with a fill power rating of at least 550. This ensures high-quality down that will keep you warmer.
3. Lightweight Down Jackets
Lightweight down jackets keep you warm throughout winter, especially if you wear a base layer. Since they’re, well, lightweight, they’re a great alternative to bulky parkas. The key is to find ones with small-scale patterns, proper sleeve length, and not too much fill. Everlane and Uniqlo both do a great job with their puffer jackets for short men.
Try wearing a base layer first, then a warm middle layer (e.g., a flannel shirt or wool sweater). If you wear your lightweight down jacket over these layers, you’ll be warm and toasty even at freezing cold temperatures.
4. Leather Jacket
Many men’s fashion articles claim that every man needs a leather jacket for outerwear. While they are a versatile addition to your wardrobe, they’re not for everyone. However, if you love the look of a leather jacket, you’re in luck because you can wear them almost anywhere. Especially during the fall and early winter. Although, I wouldn’t recommend wearing a leather jacket through winter because of the minimal insulation.
If you tend to follow a casual or smart casual dress code, leather jackets are a great choice. I recommend going with something very fitted, as it will loosen up over time. Again, pay attention to sleeve length. If they’re too long, go to the tailor!
Check out our in-depth guide to leather jackets for short men. We give you everything you need to know about how to wear them and which ones to buy.
5. Peacoats for Short Men
Another classic men’s coat is the peacoat. Although it originated as a garment for sailors, you can wear a peacoat for a “dressed up” look. They are warm and stylish and can be a great alternative to topcoats.
Peacoats are shorter than topcoats, fitting around the hip, allowing for more mobility while still retaining warmth. When finding the best size, a snug, tailored fit around the chest and shoulders is ideal, avoiding excess bulk.
Peacoats have a double-breasted design. For many short and slim men, this helps to broaden the chest area, creating a more structured and proportional look. Overall, if you think a topcoat is too long, a peacoat will likely be the perfect alternative
Where to Buy Outerwear for Short Guys
If you’re willing to get your coats and jackets altered, you can buy them anywhere and bring them to the tailor to get that perfect fit. However, if you want to avoid paying extra for tailoring, try these clothing brands for shorter guys:
- Ash & Erie – parka, bomber, overshirts / Ash & Review review
- Under 510 – just overshirts and a rain jacket in stock at the time of writing / Under 510 review
- ASKET – car coat, wool coat, denim jacket, vest (and more) / ASKET review
- Jacket Maker — leather and suede jackets / Jacket Maker Review
- Peter Manning NYC – leather jacket, field jacket, Harrington, topcoat, down jacket (and more) / Peter Manning review
- AllSaints — leather jackets
- Jimmy Au’s — all styles / Jimmy Au’s Review
Options from these individual brands may be limited, but finding something that works for you shouldn’t be hard. Also, don’t discount the value of thrifting or buying second-hand clothing. You can find diverse pieces you can’t score anywhere else.
FAQS About Outerwear for Short Men
Here are answers to some commonly asked questions about outerwear for shorter guys.
Can Shorter Guys Wear Denim Jackets?
Yes, shorter men can wear denim jackets. Just make sure the sleeves aren’t too long.
Do Coats Look Good on Short Guys?
As long as they fit correctly, most types of coats look good on short guys (long coats included).
What Jackets Look Good on Short Guys?
Almost any jacket looks good on short guys if it fits well. Avoid coats that go past your knees and super puffy jackets. Try wearing thigh-length overcoats, thin leather jackets, field jackets, and non-bulky down jackets.
Should Short Guys Wear Overcoats?
Of course! Short guys can wear overcoats fashionably if you remember that the same principles that apply to topcoats also apply to overcoats. So long as the fitting is proper and doesn’t extend past your thigh, overcoats can be stylish!
Closing Thoughts on Outerwear for Short Men
From jackets that overwhelm your frame to lengths that seem too long, short men face unique challenges when it comes to selecting the right outerwear. However, by avoiding bulky outerwear and opting for slimmer, more fitted coats, you can significantly enhance your style and stay warm in winter. Layering lightweight garments underneath can also provide added warmth without adding a lot of extra bulk. Don’t forget to stick to mid-thigh or shorter lengths for a more flattering, balanced look.
Ultimately, finding a balanced appearance that compliments your body shape is vital to looking stylish and confident in cold weather. Navigating the different styles and sizes of outerwear for short men has its challenges. However, you can easily do so simply by focusing on fit and proportion.
What’s your current favorite piece of outerwear? Leave a comment below!
Should a short man wear a vest? If your vest matches the pants would that give the illusion of an unbroken silhouette? Making you appear taller?
I wear ladies longline coats and trench coats to work and around town. I am not a cross dresser but they look great!
I follow all the rules except the overcoat or topcoat rule. My wool overcoat comes just below my knees and is tailored to just fit over a suit or sport coat.
I like leather jackets but can never find one that doesn’t need altering in the sleeves (too long) or torso (again too long) so I no longer have one. The one I had was a one of those bombers with the map lining that hit me at the waist but I had it so long and wore it so much it finally wore out.
What I have in its place now is a Tommy Hilfiger red semi-puffer, yes red, waist length Parka with a removal faux fur hood. It is extremely warm and made for deep winter weather.
Over here in Britain,the likes of Barbour and Belstaff do a range of cracking winter coats that suit short guys.
Ralph Lauren and Japanese brands like Beams Plus are also good for non bulky items which tend to fit ok.
As always sleeve length can be an issue and you also have to take account of the cold,damp,wet winters-especially here in Scotland.
The only time you should be wearing a puffer jacket is if you are literally on a ski slope. Those things are ugly as sin. I don’t get it when there are so many other options.
To each his own, but strong disagree here. Puffers are terrible for wet weather (most aren’t water resistant), and many thin ones look great (like the Everlane one I wear). I think they’re one of the most practical and stylish midweight jackets a guy can own.
Hi Brock, I really like the coat you have from Banana Republic. I am trying to get a coat (above the knee) for my fiance’s birthday – he is 5’8 around 130 pounds (small frame). Was wondering if you can give a link to that coat or something similar? Thanks!
That pic of the dude with the the tan topcoat OVER a hooded sweatshirt and baseball cap (and what appears to be sweatpants below) is one of the dumbest ensembles I’ve seen (as bad as wearing no socks with dress shoes). Sorry, Brock, but that look is laughable.
I’m 5’5’’ (and 200 lbs) and live in Winnipeg Canada. I don’t mind being short and preform warmth to fashion. Can’t understand your injunction re: below the knee dusters. I’m looking for a mid-calf down filled duster. It gets down below -40 here and can’t find a Canada Goose model. Suggestions?
Do I really have to go with coats that end above the knee as a 5’6″? I have a wool coat that fits me very well and slim throughout the chest, waist, legs and ends a decent amount below my knee which I think is flattering. My climate is cold, windy and oftentimes wet. If the proportion fit are good I don’t see why short men should have to put up with having wet and cold legs.
Hey Brock, which is your most clicked size when it comes to ordering clothes or sweaters online?
I’m 5″7 or below + 120 lbs and was thinking of a size 36 coat.
A 34S or XS would probably fit you better.
Hi. I am 5’7′′. Is it ok for a top coat which ends right at the beginning of knee?
I am 5 2 and have more weight in the gut than I need or want. I need help with shirts and outerwear. Please give me some suggestions. This is a real problem for many men. I love your website.
Hi Brock, I’m 5’3″ and am wondering if it is viable to wear women’s parkas or jackets of sorts, considering its very difficult to find a good fitting jacket for guys of my height? Thank you!
Hi Brock. Do you prefer a 100% wool coat or an 80/20 wool/synthetic blend? Whats the difference?
I’d go with whichever fits better. Given the choice, pure wool is usually a sign of higher quality. But there lots of really nice blends out there these day, so fit should be your priority.
Where does a car coat fit in? The topcoat looks too long for what I prefer to wear. Something like this? https://www.schottnyc.com/products/mens-car-coat.htm?catID=9
Nice read Brock! What would you recommend for a guy who is 5’3, 170lbs with a beer belly. Hiding my belly and choosing outwear while keeping my height in mind is quite difficult.
“The key is to find a tailor who knows what they’re doing.”
And … how do you do that? If you’ve never used a tailor before then you are pretty much going blind. None of my friends tailor clothes. Is there a review site for tailors?
Got you covered, Khurt:
https://www.themodestman.com/how-to-find-a-tailor/
Do penfield jackets fits you in XS without having to get the sleeves shortened ?
I need your help! Since I’m an Asian guy living abroad, I cannot be sure about the sizing of J.crew Top coats. I am 5′ 6″ (about 167cm maybe..?) & quite slim, and satisfied with the overall length of XS sizes shirts in both Jcrew and Club Monaco. You’ve recommended the Jcrew Top Coats, but still I think it will be a bit long on my body. Probably size 34/s is what I should go with, but my all time problem is the length. Could you please help me out? Thanks in advance!
I’ve never been very into fashion but this makes me see the value of being intentional about style and what you wear. I’m starting to see how important it is and what a difference it makes!
I looked at most of the outerwear choices you made and my problem has always been sleeve length. I am 5’4″ & 168 lbs. my suit size is 42 short so to get a jacket to fit at the shoulder, my hand are submerged in the sleeve with most outwear. Any ideas for a guy my size?
I think getting the sleeves shortened is your best bet. I have to do this for almost every jacket I own… not convenient, but it’s worth the extra effort.
Great article. I just got a pea coat for Christmas – I confess I didn’t know that’s what it was called before I read this article – and I was relieved to read that this was a good choice. I think my wife has a pretty good eye so she tends to steer me in a sensible direction. And she is 3 inches taller than me, so I need to look as tall as I can 🙂
Interesting recommendation about the parka coat – I am going to try a few on today to see how they look!
I was always told that double breasted was off limits for shorter guys. Probably because of the lateral direction it moves the eye (supposedly). It may also add unwanted bulk.
DB is okay for outerwear! It does get tricky when it comes to suits/jackets, but I wouldn’t shy away from it, especially since it would rule out most pea coats.
That’s why I moved to Florida. End of my problem. Lol
That actually sounds a like a much better solution. I may join you down there…
Couldn’t agree more on these tips, same hold true to tall thin guys too on some accounts, especially if you’re all leg.
It’s funny how taller guys have the same problems, just on the other end of the spectrum. Glad to have you here, by the way. Love your blog!
-B
Right? Puffy jackets make me look like i’m walking on stilts (more than I already do). Glad to be here! Keep up the good work.